When curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. But, situated near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a distant area of north London.
This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors completely surprised.
“I’m completely astonished,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest shop securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.
However, it is all about the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.
It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.
It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.
Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.
The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary honour.
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